Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion

This book will change your life

It’s not often that I read something that changes my life, but this book honestly falls into that category. I’m just sorry it’s taken me so long to discover it. If you haven’t read Overdressed by Elizabeth L. Cline, here’s a synopsis:

“Cheap fashion has fundamentally changed the way most Americans dress. Stores ranging from discounters like Target to traditional chains like JCPenny now offer the newest trends at unprecedentedly low prices. And we have little reason to keep wearing and repairing the clothes we already own when styles change so fast and it’s cheaper to just buy more.
Cline sets out to uncover the true nature of the cheap fashion juggernaut. What are we doing with all these cheap clothes? And more important, what are they doing to us, our society, our environment, and our economic well-being?”

I read this book in literally a couple of hours and I couldn’t get it out of my head. Andy must feel like he’s read it as well as I talked him to death about it for days afterwards.

I’ve never really been a follower of fashion, so I’m not someone that has ever bought into a trend only to throw it out and buy into a new one six weeks later. However I have definitely been guilty of over-shopping and treating some of my clothing as disposable in the past. A decade ago I’d have thought nothing of going into Topshop, H&M or Primark pretty much every weekend to find something to wear for a night out. Some of these things I’d wear once or twice, some a few more. I couldn’t sew back then, so if buttons came off or hems unravelled, I’d get rid of things. I had no interest in really looking after my clothes because they were so cheap. The most I ever paid for anything was £50 for a couple of Topshop dresses.

It sounds like my younger self had quite a bit in common with Cline, except my journey away from this excessive consumption coincided with learning to sew. I think this could be a similar story for a lot of the sewing community. I don’t think many of us make a decision to stop buying clothes, we just like making things ourselves and therefore take care of what we’ve made and appreciate the quality, which in turns means we don’t need to buy as many things.

Personally, I’ve never really been on a mission to create my entire wardrobe. There are some things I’m not confident in making and some things that I just don’t want to. Sewing basics hasn’t given me much joy and I’d rather chew my arm off than sew lingerie. Then there are the things I can’t sew; specific school uniform items and our karate gear. This made this book very relevant to me as I’m still a consumer of fast fashion, even if I don’t really want to be.

The frustrating thing about the fast fashion industry is that there are no easy answers. It seems to me like the genie is very much out of the bottle. Consumers expect their clothes to be low priced because we’ve all been conditioned to think like that. This means that companies can squeeze their manufacturers on price and it’s the workers who continually suffer. It’s profits over people every time. Buying high end isn’t even the answer because even designer clothes are often made in similar sweatshop conditions. Yet my assumption before reading this book was that the more expensive the clothing, the better it is for those who made it. Naive huh?

As this books lays out, fast fashion is bad for everyone except those at the top. It’s bad for the economy as so many local producers of fabric and garments can’t afford to stay in business, which in turn leads to job losses and a decline in quality of life for people. Although the facts in the book are America-centric, the same has happened here in the UK. How many factories here have closed because they can’t compete? Fast fashion is also bad for the environment as well because we’re using up all of our resources and creating huge amounts of pollution during the constant, excessive production of garments.

I was really surprised to learn about just how shady some of the biggest producers of clothing are as well. I had no idea that there are “show” factories set up in places like China which are used to show visitors around, and then the actual clothing is produced in far worse conditions. Some companies are aware of this, some just don’t care. Plenty of large companies seem to think it’s enough to pay lip service to transparency with a statement on their website about ethics, distancing themselves and blaming the factory owners for poor working conditions.

As sewists we can do something though. We can boycott so many fast fashion retailers by making our clothes which is fantastic. We can also use our skills to repair and refashion clothes, including second hand clothes. Sewing really can be our super power in the fight against these fast fashion retailers.

Having said that, my thoughts turned to the fabric we all buy when making our own clothes; is it actually made in better conditions than fast fashion garments? Is it good for the environment? I have to wonder whether we’re moving away from one problem to another similar one to make ourselves feel better. Buying endless amounts of fabric, that we don’t really need, isn’t exactly a solution and something I’ve long had a problem with.

Every Fashion Revolution Week, which is a wonderful initiative, I see so many sewists taking great photos and telling the world that #imademyclothes. Don’t get me wrong, it’s brilliant when people make their own clothes, but is it enough to have a borderline smug attitude about that when you are constantly buying and hoarding yards and yards of fabrics that have possibly been produced in unethical ways? Fabric you buy knowing you might not even use it? I’m not saying that anyone I know and follow has this attitude, I’m just playing devil’s advocate really. I think if this is an issue that we care about, enough to give us the drive to move away from fast fashion, then as well as asking #whomademyclothes we need to be asking #whomademyfabric?

As I said, reading this book was life-changing. Shopping is ruined for me and that can only be a good thing. I can’t bring myself to buy into this industry at all and if it means saving up and spending more then so be it. I’ve been looking into retailers offering an alternative to fast fashion which I’ll blog about and I also have an amazing documentary to share with you, suggested by one of my Instagram followers, which I’ll write about in another blog post too or this will turn into War and Peace!

If you have any suggestions for further reading on this topic please leave me links and book titles in the comments. If you’d like to know more about the book, or about Fashion Revolution, scroll up and click on the photos.



  1. 5th June 2017 / 1:03 pm

    Yes to this! I’ve also been reading in to the impact that synthetic dyes have on our bodies, how microfibre fleece is ending up in the food chain (from us washing our fleeces, the fibres end up in the water treatment plants which ends up in silage & sprayed on to crops!!!)

    I’m trying to do my bit more by buying either ethical clothing, second hand clothing & always natural fabrics. I’d love to make my own clothes but I think it’ll be a few years before I actually produce something I’d actually feel happy to wear XD And I’m definitely guilty of fabric hoarding as it is!

    Do you follow Rebecca Desnos on instagram – she’s a natural dyer & produces an excellent Plants are Magic magazine which it worth reading

    • toria
      5th June 2017 / 1:09 pm

      Oh wow, I definitely need to do some reading on that too, I hadn’t even considered what washing synthetic fibres can do. Seems like this book really is just the tip of the iceberg :-/

      I think if you want to make your own clothes, choose a simple style to begin with and buddy up with someone who can help or go along to a class 🙂

      I haven’t come across Rebecca, so I’m off over to Instagram to look at her account, thank you!

  2. 6th June 2017 / 11:35 am

    I am so conflicted about this! Here’s what I think (from your post and previous readings, but without doing any research for references right now):

    1) You are absolutely right – fast fashion is terrible for the environment. Anything really that promotes mass consumption, disposability and waste is, but also yes, it does take up a lot of water to produce and dye fabrics, and dyes are sometimes (most of the times?) allowed to leach into the environment and pollute soils and waterways.

    2) Worker conditions can be (and from the sounds of it, mostly are) terrible. Health and Safety regulations are often ignored, workers are given impossible-sounding targets, etc. etc. etc.

    However saying that…

    3) Workers STILL turn up for work. This means that working at these factories is still their best option. If they were better off elsewhere they would have gone already. These are workers in developing countries, so putting them out of work could be catastrophic for them and their families.

    So, as you say, it’s hard. A good way forward maybe would be to demand better working conditions and pay, and implementation and enforcement of environmental regulations… but then you still have the problem of over-consumption and waste. Higher pay and working conditions would necessitate more expensive clothes – which should bring down the consumption somewhat and perhaps a lot of pressure from that that could be taken care of on the other side of the consumer – through recycling materials which could use more workers.

    Of course something tells me that machines would soon be taking these jobs over so a better solution would be to help develop the countries and skills of the workers so they can do more skilled, higher-paid jobs…

    • Toria
      14th June 2017 / 11:52 am

      You’re right, I have wondered about the impact on workers should we choose not to manufacture in those countries. I don’t think it’ll ever completely happen though, so I think that better pay and better conditions is a good start for improving lives – clothes should be more expensive, we shouldn’t have that throw away mentality which is rife in Western cultures which has led to over consumption and obviously has had a negative impact on the environment.

      I think as consumers we need to seek out those companies which are paying a decent wage and insisting on good working conditions. It’s a small start, but better than ignoring the problem.

  3. 18th June 2017 / 8:55 pm

    This is such an interesting post, thank you. I had no idea about the points you have raised. I am not a big fashion follower and my teens are currently into buying from thrift shops which I think is fab! Kaz

    • Toria
      18th June 2017 / 9:03 pm

      That’s awesome! 🙂 Much more interesting for them than wearing the same as their mates too.

  4. 18th June 2017 / 9:34 pm

    What an insightful post – never even thought about this before boycott fast fashion retailers – may be a great way ad instead but second hand or make clothes 🙂 x

    • Toria
      18th June 2017 / 9:37 pm

      Thank you 🙂

    • Toria
      19th June 2017 / 10:08 am

      I don’t think you’re alone in that. I don’t think alternatives to fast fashion seem as readily available to most, which doesn’t help!

  5. 19th June 2017 / 3:49 pm

    Admittedly I shop and buy what I want I wear and usually dont think of the consequences or put any thought into how it was made or where it came from x

    • Toria
      19th June 2017 / 5:02 pm

      Most of us do, but I really think it’s retailers that are to blame for that.

  6. 19th June 2017 / 10:08 pm

    Such an interesting post, and something I’ve not given much thought to either – I will in future! I’ve always loved the idea of making my own clothes though, although sewing is not my strong point!

    • Toria
      19th June 2017 / 10:13 pm

      Glad you found it interesting 🙂 It is a really good book if you want to know more!

  7. 20th June 2017 / 6:58 am

    I like your instagram feed. I am recently fallen in love with fashion and love to share on instagram. I would love to learn to sew and make clothes for my child!

    • Toria
      20th June 2017 / 10:03 am

      Thank you Kids clothes are so easy, that’s how I started – give it a go!

  8. chichi
    20th June 2017 / 6:46 pm

    i have till now just bought what i loved but slowly i want to make conscious purchases!

    • Toria
      20th June 2017 / 6:56 pm

      That’s great!

  9. 20th June 2017 / 8:59 pm

    I haven’t really thought about the shops and products I’m spending my money in and on – this post is really insightful, so I’ll definitely start thinking about things more before I buy them! x

    • Toria
      20th June 2017 / 9:33 pm

      Glad you found it interesting 🙂

  10. 15th July 2017 / 1:28 pm

    Hi – I am going to post a reading list on the Facebook site so everyone can add to it.

    • Toria
      16th July 2017 / 9:17 pm

      Great idea 🙂

  11. Fiona
    14th September 2017 / 1:58 pm

    Very interesting to read-

    I remember going to a lecture put on by Ethial Fashion Forum down in Brick Lane in London a number of years back and there are lots of companies starting to use more ethically based methods to create fabric for industry. Examples of such were community initiatives for crafts people to gain and develop traditional weaving/embroidery/printing skills and be paid a living wage, which would mean the fabrics would enter the market at a higher price point and a more sustainable background for trainers to choose from.

    I also remember EFF talking about companies that use a manufacture and then dropping them as soon as an unethical problem arises are almost just as bad as one who continues to use a an unethical manufacture as they are not fixing the soloution only dropping it for some one else to deal with (not to mention the effect that can have on all those stage who then have to be let off because the work, they depend on, has just been pulled away from them). A good company, once a problem has arisen would work with their manufactures to improve the procedures and health standards they have in place, and all though this takes more time to, would help engrave better ethical and sustainable standards within the manufacturing company to move forward with.

    Also I love the idea of natural dyes being used rather than synthetic and would like to add that digital printing can also be a non toxic and sustainable method of printing pattern onto fabric as it takes a lot less man-power, wastage of water and potentially the power needed could be sourced from renewable energy.

    Really interesting blog post look forward to reading others xx

    • Toria
      15th September 2017 / 11:10 am

      Thanks for your comment Fiona 🙂

      The EFF sounds fascinating and I love that manufacturers are considering where their fabric comes from. It’s reassuring to know that there are companies who will work with manufacturers to help them to become “better” rather than leaving the problem to continue.

      I hadn’t considered how digital printing is also an ethical form of printing fabric. I may have to pick your brains on that!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Official Member of Ethical Influencers

If you've enjoyed reading my blog, please consider donating the cost of a coffee to help me to keep it running.